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Lindley Kennel
3332 W. Georgia Rd.
Piedmont, SC 29673
864-243-3583 (kennel)

Q&A ARCHIVES
Preventing Self-Relocating
Posted by: "Jim Cullen"
Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:31 pm (PDT)
At our weekend trial(AF) my 3 year old Britt had two finds. One was broke with her marking during the flush. The other was a difficult flush on a running quail in thick cover that left me pretty cut up. During the flush attempt she relocated about 2 dog lengths as I was having trouble finding the bird and she decided to be a bit independant and help me out. She was again steady through the shot but too late. What would be some good drills to keep her in place?

Thanks,
Jim Cullen.

Posted by: "agreeneboys"
Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:24 pm (PDT)

Jim,

I would like for you to receive assistance with your companion moving during a long flushing attempt. The dog moving a couple steps could have been a one time occurence? Sometimes "drills" can put to much pressure on a dog causing other problems.

Would you have an opportunity to share more information on where the dogs skill progression is using the Gibbons/West/Lindley method?

The respondents may want to know if your still training the dog in full dress or using a e-collar only?

Best wishes in finishing your dog.

billy

Posted by: Maurice
Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:49 pm (PDT)

Jim, one thing that helps is to do a real good job teaching your dog to stand still. Be very particular about it. Stand still means stand still, even if the dog just moves it feet a little bit, correct it and set it back. All this training is done at the start of formal training around birds but not directly on birds

This should be reviewed often to keep the dog real sharp. The other thing you want the dog to learn is when you step past the dogs ear you are in complete control of the bird at that point The dog should not move unless you tap it to relocate. Your dog is 3 years old so I would expect some mistakes but would correct the mistakes even at a trial. When your dog moved to relocate the judges were done looking at your dog. Instead of continuing to flush the bird just step to your dog , tell the judges you are picking up, do a little correction to let your dog know it should not of moved. This need not be a tough correction just get your hands on the dog and make it stand still like you would if you were training.. Don't you hate the pen raised quail in a lot of heavy cover? They can be tough to flush and that causes a young dog to want to help at times.

Your young dog sounds nice to me.

Mo

Posted by: "e hallmark"
Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:20 pm (PDT)

Great advise Mo,

I would like to add that if your are going to be serious about FT's you must attempt to train for those circumstances that you perceive will be a problem before they get to be a problem. In this case, you know what the problem is, set it up and attempt to strengthen the dogs ability to trust that you will get the bird up and that you do not need his/her help.

I liken this to a professional athlete in training for a major competition. Train to a standard higher than you will expect to be the norm at the event so that when the unusual happens it will already be like ordinary events for you and the dog.

How do you know what might happen ahead of time? Ride every available brace that you can to watch and learn so that you can raise the level of your own training.

EllisHallmark

PS, The great thing about Bill West's method is that you can take a 14 yr old or a 1 yr old and refresh the behavior that you expect without abuse to you or the dog.